Sep 2008

THE DISCOVERY DIARY

MONTH: September 2008

COUNTRIES: South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Mozambique

SIGHTS: Voktrekker Monument, Vic Falls, The Okavango Delta (from 300 meters in the air ), 100’s of different birds including; fish eagle, vulture, great egret. All the usual Safari animals including Lion, Rhino, Cheetah, Elephants and in the sea whale shark, humpback whales, devil ray and dolphins.

TOP MOMENTS:
1. White water rafting the Zambezi.
2. Snorkling up close with whale sharks, Mozambique. (thanks to cash from Al.G, Ed, Sal and Al)
3. Sitting with the pilot in the light aircraft over the delta.
4. Body boarding the monster waves at Tofo beach.
5. Getting very close to a male lion in Kruger Park.

LOWEST MOMENTS:
1. Not been able to Braii beacuse of crazy landlady (looking like Miss Marple) panicking about the wind setting the beach huts on fire.
2. Waves caused by 20 mph winds stopping deep sea fishing trip.

SCARIEST MOMENTS:
1. Sleeping (or not) in a tent whilst a bull elephant snacks on nuts in a tree above our tent.
2. Looking under the water and coming face to face (arms length) with a 20 meter whale shark.
3. Driving at night on potholed road surrounded by drunken locals not really sure where we are going in Mozambique.

MOST USUAL FOODS:
1. Hunterpot Wilderbeast with sudza (mealie meal) – Vic Falls, Zim.
2. Kudu Boerwors sausage –My Bday, Botswana.
3. Crayfish – speared and cooked by locals.

MOSTLY MISSING: comfortable bed

MOSTLY HAD FILL OF: impala and elephants / local kids trying sell us shell bracelets.

QUOTES: ‘The mighty Zambizi... somebody stop me’ – Colgate, rafting guide. ‘Its running toward the tent’ – Chris, Gunns Camp. ‘I’m a beer smuggler’ Christopher, guy on Botswana ferry boarder crossing.

FISH CAUGHT: Zero – crocs, boat parts, wind / surf, competition dates and fat lazy Gary all working against me.

MOSI BITES: Lil = 6. Chris = 3.

TAN: Lost the pale glow, more the colour of weak latte now.

NEXT ON THE AGENDA: Swaziland and more of South Africa – Kwazulunatal, Eastern Cape and Western Cape.

We departed Joburg early on a overland truck with 17 other people from Oz, US, Germany, Switzerland, Israel, UK, New Zealand, Ireland, Finland – a real mixed bunch who turned out to be a fun crowd and we all got on great. After a back breaking long distance journey we arrived in Maun, Botswana for our four seater light aircraft trip over the delta to our bush camp. On the way back Chris confronted his fear and joined the pilot in the front seat, one of the highlights so far.

Camping on the edge of the delta we soon found out we shared our camp with a three tonne bull elephant name Bruno. Instilling fear into all of us with his midnight visits to stomp around a metre away from our tents, violently shaking trees to get the nuts, very sleepless nights. The next day was followed by an early morning game ride on Chiefs Island that we got to in traditional Mokoro dug out canoes that Chris also had a go on at poling the Mokoro. On the walk we spotted loads of wildlife such as zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, baboons, impala, elephant and many birds including fish eagles and great egrets.
The next section we moved to Chobe National Park in the north of Botswana. On the way we celebrated Chris's birthday in style, starting with Amarula ( thanks to Len and Kate), then champagne, springsboks, Kudu boerowors sausages and steaks the size of hubcaps. A really nice camp with swimming pool surrounded by ancient Baobab trees up to 2000 years old. The next morning was an early slightly jaded start. When we arrived to Chobe river and our camp. That afternoon we went on a game sunset cruise where we again spotted loads of animals including crocs and hippos.
We had to take a ferry across the Chobe river which divided Botswana and Zambia. We got onto one of the two ferries ( there was three until recently one sank, reassuring!) only to see a flip flop floating past us at high speed as the ferry moved off across to the Zambia border. Chris followed the flip flop to the end of the boat to help a local rescue his flip flop so he did not have to hop across the border. Chris's now new best mate ( also called Christopher) insisted on shaking his hand many times and chatting to him. When enquiring what Christopher did for a living, we interestingly found out that he and his friends were beer smugglers.

In Zambia we took in the falls and as there was low water we walked along the top lip and looked precariously over the edge. The following day our fixer named Active transported us across the Zimbabwean border to Vic Falls. This was the location of the best part of the Africa trip so far – white water rafting on the mighty Zambezi river. 24km, 21 grade 5 rapids, in a gorge 200m deep on a plastic boat with a mental guide called Colgate and five other people. As we went through rapid 5 – stairway to heaven the section with the 10ft drop lifted the boat practically vertical and twisted on the drop spitting us both out into the river for our first swim. A mental adrenaline filled experience, defiantly the best so far.
Quick flight back to Joburg and tomorrow we depart for Kruger National Park then Mozambique.